Rover Rebuild of 2002
|The installation of the power plant was the most time consuming aspect of the rebuild. I spent two whole days doing nothing more then moving the engine 1/2" this way and 1/2" that way. Because of the weight and size of the engine I wanted it to be as low as possible, as far back as possible, and centered between the frame rails. The engine also had to be high enough to clear the front axle under movement. Had to be offset to the left to clear the front drive shaft. And had to be far enough forward for the heads to clear the bulkhead. I also had to work out location for the radiator, oil cooler, etc.|
|I built two cross bars, one for the engine and the second for the transmission. The bars were made from 2" tube. I attached another 3" long piece of tube on the ends. Into the end tubes I inserted poly spring bushings. Welded up brackets for the frame and then held the cross braces in place with 9/16" grade 8 bolts. On the front brace I made up a plate to bolt to the stock engine mounts. In the rear I just drilled a couple holes in the cross brace to accept a stock GM tranny mount. I used Energy Systems poly engine and tranny mounts.|
|I had widened the space betwwen the footwells enough so that the engine would fit. I could move it back another 5 inches from what is shown in this image. But with the engine that far back, it would be just about impossible to remove the #7 and #8 injectors and glowplugs. I could narrow up the passenger footwell some more, but because of the accelerator linkage this is a pretty hard to do. As it was, in this possition the Dana 18 is centered between the axles, so I ended up with 26" drive shafts on both ends.|
|After getting the engine and transmission locations set, I worked out the exhaust system. The first version used a conglomeration of used parts from the Land Rover and the GMC donnor vehicle. This got me on the road, but really needed fixen properly later.|
The clutch linkage was a real doozy. I didn't find out until just recently that there are different styles of GM clutches, some of which require less throw to activate.
Until I need to change out the clutch, this is what I did. I made a bracket to mount the slave cylinder in a verticle position, similar to the Series IIa set up. I then made a braket that bolted onto the bellhousing and the side of the engine. This has a pin made from a 1/2" grade 8 bolt. The pin is the pivot point for the L shaped arm that I made to connect the slave to the clutch fork.
|This is a view of the set up from the rear. The upper arm of the L is 1/2". The lower arm is 3/16". After getting everything test fitted and I was sure it was working correctly, I welded another piece onto the lower arm, creating an angle, to prevent any lateral bending.|
|The bracket and arm, after final welding and painting.|
|After getting the whole thing installed it's time to get the fuel lines and electrics run.|
|This is the glow plug controller and tangle of wires. I placed the 14 circuit fuse box on the inside of the bulkhead in the bare spot in front of the passenger. Then removed the steering column blanking plate, installed a huge grommit and ran the main harness.|
|The dual Racor fuel filters have a 60GPM flow rate and fit perfectly on the bulkhead behind the engine. I welded a 12x6 piece of 14 gauge of sheet metal onto the front face of the bulkhead to provide a stiffener to bolt the filter heads to.|
|Drivers side of the engine with the radiator hoses, oil cooler lines, and power steering lines run. Took a bit to track down a loose ground wire, and then she started right up. WooooHoooo!!!!|