The Aloha Rover gets some new protection.

I have needed a cage ever since getting the hardtop.  I had made a simple dual hoop cage in Hawai'i that replaced the stock soft-top hoops.  That cage was just bolted down to the tub's body cappings.  It was stronger then a hardtop but it still wasn't a real cage.
I wanted something I could use with both the hardtop and softtop, but I couldn't decide between an internal and external design.  I really like a full external cage, like you see on some trucks in Australia and rock crawlers here in the US.  They do a great job of keeping the body in one piece in a roll as well as acting as full body sliders.  But I felt an internal was neccessary for mounting points for a 5-point race harness.
What I finally decided upon was to do a dual hoop, 6-point internal cage and a tri-hoop, 8-point external.  The internal component will have A and B hoops that go to the frame and then legs from the B-hoop back down to the rear crossmember.  The B-hoop would go right behind the seats, provide the mounting points for seat belts, and have tabs out to the sides of the tub, effectively replacing the behind the seat bulkhead.  Spreader bars between the A and B hoops will provide an overhead console and location for my computer.
The external cage will have an A hoop tied into the bulkhead outrigger, B hoop to the front tub outrigger, and C hoop down to the rear crossmember.  Tubes will run from the front bumper up to the A hoop, and 4 overhead spreaders between all three hoops.  The exo will be held in place with bolt on brackets on each foot so that the entire exo can be removed easily.
There will be a pair of brackets that connect the internal and external B-hoops using plates that sandwich roof. to tie both cages together.

Someday I hope to stretch my 88 to a 100.  The internal cage will work with both lengths with a very simple modification to the rear legs.  And the internal component really is the most important.  It will be on the truck all the time, while the external can be removed when not needed.  So I got started on the internal first.

I designed tha cages and started the build up of the internal cage before I got Activated and Deployed.  So this was long before Ethan and YTBN (yet to be named) came into the picture.  I think if I had known I could possibly have two more passengers on trips I probably would have changed the internal design to use a C-hoop instead of the rear legs.  I will change this when I stretch the truck.  Its going to be a while before the kids are old enough to go out with me anyway.  In the mean while below are the photos from the internal build.  The entire thing is made of 1.75"x.120" tube.

The B-hoop and rear leags.  The B-hoop closely follows the lines of the hardtop.  The legs end in plates on the wheel well.  On the underside small extensions will carry down to the outrigger.  I placed two tubes dropping straight down from the top of the hoop to the tub floor.  These will conect to extensions going to the frame.  A spreader between the hoop and the drops is put in to attach the shoulder harness from a 5-point.  Until I get some tall backed seats, I will be placing a headrest above this horizontal bar.

A shot of the feet of the B-hoop.  I am thinking about using a heavy-duty ring to replace one of the 1/2" grade-8 bolts at each of the 6 feet in the tub.  Basically to use for tie-downs.
This is the foot in the rear corner of the tub.  Extensions will carry this down to the rear crossmember.
This is the bottom plate for the B hoop.  Still need to build the extension.  The plate extends towards the tub side.  The single hole is for the bracket to the seat belt real for the regualr shoulder belts.
Looking rear to the plate under the rear leg.  My rear crossmember is 3/16" plate so I am not worried about the forces acting on it by the cage.  Same thing goes for the entire frame.
This is the bottom of the A-hoop.  The A-hoop is bent to follow the inside edge of the windscreen.  There is a bracket that goes from the bottom of the A-hoop, down the leg of the bulkhead through the floor and onto the top of the bulkhead outrigger.  This shot is of the top portion of the leg bracket.
This L bracket goes inside the dash area.  Bolts to the leg bracket and to the foot of the A-hoop itself.  I did this so that I would be able to have two bolts on each foot of the hoop.
In order to be narrow enough to clear the door, the windscreen tabs needed to be "modified" and the bulkhead hold down is removed entirely.  A bracket will go from the top of the A-hoop to the top of the windscreen.  Using the exisiting roof bolts to hold the windscreen to the A-hoop.  This also serves to strengthen the windscreen frame.
The full cage after getting welded and painted.  The console between the inner overhead spreaders has the stereo, satellite radio, and CB mounted.  There are also three interior lights, one facing each seat and one into the rear tub.
A side shot of the cage.  You can see the upper shoulder mounts for the normal seat belts.  You also get a good idea of how far I moved my seats back since removing the rear bulkhead.
Shot of the A-hoop and overhead console.
Still running wires at this point in the game.
This is a close up of the bars meeting above the drivers head at the B-Hoop. 
This is taken from the drivers door, facing rear.
To the far left is the center spreader bar over the drivers head. 
In the center of the shot is the verticle bar from the B-hoop to the floor. 
Next is the rear trailing leg. 
And at the far right, out of focus is the other over head spreader.



This is taken from the drivers door facing forward. 
This is the outer overhead spreader meeting the A-hoop.



This is the B-Hoop extension on the passenger side of the vehicle.
There is a 2x6x3/16 plate on the bottom of the tub. 
A 2x2x3/16 angle goes from this plate down to the outrigger.
At the outrigger is another piece of 2x2 angle with some gussets forming the lower foot.
Another view of the same piece.



The passenger side A-hoop.
Showing how the hoop follows the window frame and just runs inside where the door goes.



Another shot of the A-hoop.
This shows how the hoop bolts down to the two angled brackets.
Also shows how the two brackets bolt together, sandwiching the dash.



ANother close up of the A-hoop foot and the outer bracket.
I still need to continue the outer bracket along the bulkhead leg, down to the outrigger.


Another shot of the overhead console. 
The central spreader bars are on 12" centers.  This leave 10.5" clear between the bars.
I made a sheetmetal encloser for the stereo and welded it to the bottom of the spreaders.
The mount for the Sirius bolts to the front plate of the encloser.
The CB and a 500w transformer are on top of the encloser, between the bars.
On the left of the encloser and at the very top of the shot you can see 2 of the 3 interior lights.
At the top of the shot is also the external speaker for the CB.
There are a lot of power cords and antennas for all of this stuff.  Depending on the source the cables were either run up the right leg of the B-hoop or the left leg of the A-hoop and secured with zip ties.  Wouldn't you know I was all out of black ties.
The roll bar padding will serve to hide all the wires after it gets installed.